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Mount Rainier climb - Andy's (weird) perspective
 
The good thing about me normally restricting myself to writing about my diving and dive trips is that there is rarely the opportunity to slide into those areas of discussion where people say "Oh, I did not need to know that" or hold a hand up and say "Oh, too much personal information."  However, this little blog is covering the lead up to my attempt to climb to the top of Mount Rainier in Washington, and, therefore, anything goes.
 
There are three sections to this blog:
 
  • Getting ready for the climb
  • Final preparations, week of June 6
  • The Climb
 
 
Getting ready for the climb – Sometime later than I should have started
 
As I said on the home page, the trip came about from a comment in a bar from a good friend of mine, Steve Huff.  "Let’s climb a mountain", "Yes" I said, expecting that in the normal way of the world, those bar-based conversations tend to be forgotten by morning.  However, Steve is made of sterner stuff than that, and before I knew it, we were signed up for a 3 Day Muir Climb on Mount Rainier.
 
This first section is going to run through some of my scattered thought processes and training leading up to the climb.  The second section will cover the climb itself which starts on June 15, 2011.  The reason for the warning at the start is that subjects that will be covered May (or may not!) include (click to go to the section if you really cannot be bothered to read all the drivel in between!):
 
  • Fitness room etiquette
  • Sweat bullets
  • Money changing hands over freeze-dried penises
  • Another one of Andy’s phases
  • Is that Jesus’ face in my chest sweat?
  • What I learned hiking in Texas
  • Gear list and pee bottle
 
For two weeks after the infamous "Let's climb a mountain" comment, I wandered blissfully through my normal weeks of work, travel, occasional runs on treadmills with little enthusiasm, because nowhere on the machine does it say - "reverses the effects of aging."  In fact, all the instructions say are that if you operate the machine incorrectly or have high blood pressure, it could actually kill you.  What's more, the hotel, well aware that some middle-aged dude is trying to run and could for any number of unseen medical complications drop dead at any moment, put up a sign saying that 'you exercise at your own risk' and that the 'hotel is not responsible.'  They even put rubber on the floor so that if your expiration happens to be messy in any way, they can wash you away quickly. 
 
The problem with traveling a lot for work is that I do have to use the inaptly named hotel 'fitness rooms' for my training, and once the fact that I was actually going to do this mountain 'hike' (as I thought it was at the time) sunk in, I had to start thinking about which of the hotels that I stayed in had decent running machines and weights. 
 
One thing that I have noticed about all hotel fitness rooms is that there is not a heart defibrillator anywhere in sight.  All the guys that are over 50 and plodding along on the running machines have been told to run by their doctors because (a) they have recently had a heart attack (b) they have high blood pressure or (c) they have a major cholesterol anomaly that they are fighting.  Note - stroke victims rarely use hotel fitness machines, because they have a tendency to keep falling off on the right hand side of the machine.  Someone really should invent a circular running machine so that stroke victims can get exercise without falling on innocent heart attack patients in Hampton Inn fitness rooms.
 
So based on the fact that over 50-year olds running on hotel treadmills are an accident waiting to happen, why isn't there a defibrillator, large first aid kit, and gurney lurking in the fitness rooms?  Even the emergency telephones are four feet above the ground.  How is a heart attack victim supposed to reach that?  Climb on the water fountain and leap?
 
Fitness room etiquette
 
For those of us who are not 50, but are on the wrong end of 40 and have not had a heart attack (yet), do not suffer from high blood pressure (yet), or have a major cholesterol problem....yet, we get to be there because:
 
  • We don't want to suffer from any of those things when we do exceed the big five-oh.
  • Our doctors told us (right after they removed the rubber glove and put the top back on the tube of lubricant) that we need to exercise at least 3 times per week for 40 minutes and break a sweat doing it.
  • We do believe that a treadmill is a time machine and that we are magically becoming younger with each step.
  • There is no way that we could really run if the street was not moving rapidly underneath us.  I have tried it - stand outside on the street - nothing happens.
  • It is more interesting than sitting in your room watching reality TV - unless Deadliest Catch is on.
  • There may be a stunning model or group of scantily-clad strippers working out as well.  No, it never happens.  Women go to fitness rooms in hotels because their doctors told them to lose weight.
  • We (mid-ish 40's and up) go later in the evening in the hope that the young guys that are there because they are fit and training for extreme ironman competitions have finished their training and there is nothing but a heap of sweaty towels and mess of weights laying around.  For some reason only people that are 35 or older put weights away.
  • Also, we go later because there is no chance that an overweight mother has brought her smaller, but perfectly overweight, kids to the room and they are using the equipment in lieu of real monkey bars.  However, if there are some in there, take the heaviest medicine ball and roll it out onto the floor in the middle of the room and wait and see if one of them (a) rushes over to grab it or (b) thinks it's a soccer ball.  COME ON - don't roll your eyes.  You would do it too if you had a long hard day at work and had to work out.
  • More people will run, and run better, if the running machine faces the pool and the people in the pool can see the running machines.  Also, if only one running machine has a view of the pool, there is always an over 50 plodding on it. 
  • Some men, for some reason, like to wear those silky running shorts with safety net inside them to stop anything from escaping.  If you are over 21 - JUST DON'T DO IT! 
 
So one guy is running and another guy walks in and starts running next to him.  Neither will look at each other, but both will run faster and longer than they would have if they were in there on their own - unspoken competition between men of a certain age is mandatory.  If, for some reason, a 20-something year old woman should walk into the gym to warm up for an extreme triathlon, both guys will forget about each other and have a better workout than they would have done, secretly competing with themselves.  The only difference is that now they will actually acknowledge each other long enough to show that they are interested in her - it's a man thing.
 
Sweating bullets
 
The last thing that I need to cover is my 'sweat bullets.  I sweat when I run and for some reason the sweat always starts by running down my arm and between my little finger and the finger next to it on both hands.  This means that in the normal process of moving my arms while running, I shoot little bullets of sweat from my hands over the running machine controls and out onto the floor in front of the machine.  This little 'problem' can be fun, because if I am running in front of a mirror, I can use the sweat bullets for target practice by hitting my own reflected image in various places or seeing if I can hit kids that are running around the gym unnecessarily. No parent can complain to me if a kid goes crying to them with an eye stinging from a direct hit from an Andy sweat bullet because (a) they know that the kids should not really be there and (b) it's a gym - people sweat there - even the 40-somethings! 
 
But I digress as always!  As I said, Steve set up the climb and the first (and last to this point!) set of discussions took place at Steve's apartment over a glass of wine.  Steve paid the deposit, so we had a square up on that and then looked at pictures of the mountain.  Clearly nothing was clicking in with me, because I was still of the view that this was a hike, even though, looking back on it and looking at the pictures today, all evidence pointed to the fact that it was going to be more than a 'hike'.
 
Money exchanges hands over dried penises
 
My attention may well have been distracted by the fact that Steve's girlfriend Vickie was feeding their dog 'pizzles'.  For those of you that are not educated in such matters, pizzles are dried penises.  It has never ceased to amaze me what people feed dogs - pig’s ears, pig’s feet, cow’s hooves; cattle skin based chew toys and....dried penises.  My biggest concerns with this practice are:
 
  • Gender choice issues for dogs exposed to pizzles at young and impressionable ages, also known as the 'Chastity Bono' effect.
  • Knowing what they are and then hearing the gnawing and crunching sound makes me press my knees together - last thing you want is a pizzle-crazed dog going 'kujo' on you in the night.
  • That the dog might take one outside on a rainy night and leave it on your front doorstep.  I would not want to explain to my neighbors why there was a full size rehydrated pig's penis on my doorstep  
  • Asking for them in a store "Excuse me, could you tell me where I can find your penises?"
 
Needless to say, I was acting like a 12 year old kid with all the pizzle jokes, and once again did not really comprehend or understand the fact that I was actually going to do this and that it was going to be a little more involved than I had anticipated at the time.
 
Another one of Andy’s little phases
 
So here are the phases that I go though on most all of the larger projects that I get involved in.  They are 'the blind eye' phase, the 'squinting' phase, and the 'radical extremist' phase.
 
The 'blind eye' phase lasts the longest, and it is the time when I know that I have to do something, but there are other more pressing things occupying the available spots at the front of my brain; these generally being a work project or work travel related.  I know it is there, and it is lurking in the back of my brain screaming for attention, but like a person stuck at the bottom of a deep well, the scream is pretty quiet when it hits the listener at the surface.  I may have cursory thoughts about it, but it is only to reinforce my own idea of what it is and not under any circumstance explore it in such a way as that it will/could disrupt what it is that I am working on, thinking about, or stressing about.  This is characterized in this case by reading nothing about the upcoming trip! 
 
The 'squinting' phase occurs when something, normally a sense of a time line pressure, makes me look at the problem or process. I do not really want to change my current opinion that it is nothing to worry about, that the course that I am on is fine, but I am starting to realize that the screaming is getting louder and that the project is creeping up on my front brain slots.  It is similar to those days at school when you have a midterm, but it is not for 3 days - plenty of time to study - right?  You can rationalize that you can still work on another project today, get a beer tonight, sleep in tomorrow morning, and then have plenty of time to focus on studying for the midterm on the afternoon and evening of day 2.  Right?  The success and the thoughtful time applied to my projects is directly affected by the time this phase lasts, because when I slide out of this phase - all hell breaks loose
 
The last phase is the 'radical extremist' phase.  This is the one thing about me that can cause even my mother to break the chains of unquestioned parental love to want to beat me to death with my own freshly amputated pizzle.  When that low screaming thing in the back of my thought processes finally makes the last leap into a front brain slot and yells loud and long into that shell-like, gaping cranial space that I have - step back, because I have catapulted myself from the squinting phase, through a momentary 'deer staring into the headlights', wide-eyed focus to an utter mayhem of activity in a split second.
 
Don't misunderstand one thing - the quest for knowledge about the process at hand is still highly tainted by the preformed thoughts in the mid section of the blind eye phase, and now as I enter the wild-eyed, radical extremist phase, I actively don't want to know all the details, but I will assume the worst!  In the case of this climb, it meant that I went from plodding along, running three times a week and managing my general fitness to a training regime that a marine drill instructor would be proud of.  I have no concern whatsoever about the guy on the running machine next to me at the Hampton Inn.....death or glory.......RUN, ANDY, RUN, sweat pouring off me, bullets flying, and to hell with the fact that this machine could kill me and that the hotel will not accept any responsibility for either my personal possessions that are left in the fitness room or my life! 
 
This is the phase that I am in today, the radical extremist phase largely driven by a fear of failure, the small amount of knowledge that I have about the task ahead other than to assume that it will be second only to a full blown ascent on Everest and the sneaking egotistical hope that I (a) really will get younger or (b) that I will end up with the body of Adonis. 
 
Ok, Andy - Stop right there!  Getting younger is simply not an option - however, snapping a leg bone because of osteoporosis or throwing a hip out is - but getting younger is not.  As for the Adonis thing, the sculptor chose a young hunky thing.  He clearly did not head over to the local Hampton Inn, walk into the fitness room, look at the running machines and asking (in Latin or Italian) "When you are done, would one of you guys mind sitting around for a couple of months while I carve you in marble?
 
Also, he did not come back 25 years later to find his Adonis to do a '25 years on' kind of 'Where is he now?' sculpture, because if he did the discussion would go something like this: 
 
"Hey Adonis it is me, back for anoth...............WHOA, what happened dude?  Where are the golden locks, and why is your chest wrestling with your stomach?  Ya should have laid off the mead.  I am going to need to get a bigger block of marble for this one.
 
So the point is that for all the radical training that I do, there are some things that time can do to a man that last minute, intense training cannot undo!  
 
Today I have two weeks until the actual climb and have really been in the radical extremist phase for about two months.  I am always impressed with myself when I finally cut loose, and I am going to tell you a little about that training, but I do have to admit that there is a small part in me that wants to keep it all secret. The reason is that if something goes wrong and I am not fit enough and do not make it, I could fall back on the 'not enough training' argument, but you will learn that although I started late, I have trained hard and feel like I am ready for the trip. 
 
With that sense of being ready comes excitement about the trip too - until something knocks you back, like emails about what other people in the group are doing for training, but we will get to that in good time.  I hit the fitness room almost every day and run.  I added upper body training to that when the 'trip hit the fan' for want of a better phrase. To get ready for the climbing, I have a backpack with 45 lbs of diving lead in it, and I use that to walk on an inclined treadmill that assumes that I have driven and not flown to my destination. 
 
Is that Jesus in my chest sweat?
 
Something that I mentioned earlier - Jesus appearing in my chest sweat.  Actually that was just a slightly controversial catch line to make you read on.  What I really see on my chest as I start to sweat in the gym is an elephant's head.  See - nowhere near as exciting as a vision of Christ on my chest.  It actually starts right in the middle, the dark stain of sweat then moves horizontally along the bottom of my man breasts (Well, I am over 45!).  Next the darkness slides down and up the middle of my chest forming almost a cross, but then everything starts to fill in and right at that point I have what looks like a big floppy elephant ear over each of my pecs and the bottom of the cross immediately becomes a trunk and just for a moment, there it is, an elephant's head!!  I would love to show people, but I have not plucked up the courage to shout at the guy on the running machine next to me, point at my chest and say "Hey look, it’s an elephant's head".  And then it is gone :-(. 
 
I also love to hike and have really stepped up my hiking by always wearing a 40-50 lb pack when I head out.  Unfortunately even the 'Hill country' in Texas is woefully flat compared to the rugged hills and majestic heights of Arizona, but I persevere and perspire in the 97 degree heat and 85-90% humidity of rocky trails in Texas parks.  I do love to hike hard, fast, and out of breathe and enjoy the quiet of the outside world.  If I find a steep hill, I will climb it twice just to make sure that I hurt enough.  This is really when the radical extremist stage is kicking in!
 
Some things that I have learned while hiking in Texas: 
                   
  • A lizard running away from you in the dry leaves next to the trail can make as much noise as an armadillo running towards you.  Now this can be an issue because a lizard is a little thing that we try not to tread on while an armadillo is a 15 lb, fully armored, bowling ball heading at you.  Luckily this one missed me, but it was the first one that I had ever seen that was actually alive and not dead on the road.  They are much rounder in real life!
  • However much water that you think you will take on the trail – double it.  Hiking in 90+ degrees with the same percentage of humidity makes for a messy, sweaty time!
  • Mountain bike crashes are fun to watch.  I am sorry but they are.  If I see a mountain bike on a trail that I am on, it is because they are lost or inexperienced.  I just do not see good mountain bikers on those rough, rocky, bouncy trails that I like to hike on.  So when I hear the rattling and banging noise coming down the track with a leg occasionally poking out to one side or the other, I ready myself for the inevitable, potentially painful, but always funny dismount.  Here is a tactic for bringing one down.  Find a rocky stretch of path, and find a rock to sit on just ahead of the rocky area in the path.  As the cyclist approaches, there is a moment that he will look at you and register two things (a) that you exist and (b) that now would not be a good time to fall off.  At the moment that his eyes start to move from you back to the trail, shout “Watch out!”  Timing is everything here - it needs to be as the eyes are moving away from you, but before they connect with the trail, and that my friends, will bring them down every time.  The technique works in many situations; practice on a work colleague that is in the process of pouring coffee from a jug into a mug – you will get the hang of it.  NOTE:  this technique does not work on small children riding bikes.  They have no fear, you will never beat them back to camp, and they cannot see you sitting on your rock, because their oversized helmet is invariably resting on the bridge of their nose and they can see nothing. 
  • If, a little further down the trail, you see that mountain bike person fixing a flat, DO NOT look away and walk stoically past.  Remember – ‘Stop, Point and Laugh’.  This also works in many other situations around the office or home, but rather than it saving your life one day, it is more likely to get you beaten to death.
  • One more thing for cyclists everywhere.  Don’t ring a bell and say ‘on your left’ in the closing 10 feet before you pass me.  The issue is that first I have to process the word ‘left,’ and that requires looking at a hand and thinking ‘knife or fork.’  I understand that this process would not work for Americans, and it may be a little hard to understand, but British people tell right from left based on which hand holds which eating utensil. So, I look at my right hand and say ‘knife;’ then I look at my other hand and say ‘fork.’ Ergo that hand is on the left side of my body.  Second, whose left are we talking about?  Should I move to my left or to my right to avoid the collision?  If I turn to look at you, left and right will switch and then it will get really messy.  So there is a good chance that after making that statement, the last thing that you will see before you hit the tree is me looking vaguely at my right or left hand and probably hear the word ‘fork.’  And remember – ‘Stop, point, laugh’!
  • You absolutely do not want to know this, but sometimes when I hike and sweat I get a kind of nappy rash.  However, a preventative application of a small amount of Vaseline at the point where the bottom of your bottom meets the tippy top of your inner thighs can make a whole lot of difference to your hiking experience.  So don’t get grossed out if you see me in hiking pants and realize with horror that you now know that there is a good chance that I have Vaseline on my buttocks.
  • Critters like to poop on the trail.  WHY?  They have an entire dang forest to poop in, but NO, they have to poop on the trail!  Often they actually manage to balance a poop on a rock.  Now that must garner some bragging rights in the critter world.  So there is some large hog/pig/goat creature walking through the woods with his buddy, and he suddenly stops dead in his tracks.  His buddy says “Wasss up,” and he says “Gotta go bro; where is the human’s trail?”  The other thing that you have to know is that they just pooped on the trail right in front of you and are probably out there in the brush watching, nudging each other, and giggling.  You know this because in the woods one critter’s poop is another critter’s dinner, or nest, or hat or something, and it is going to get carried away by something before it is very old or very cold.
  • At certain times of the year squirrels grow huge balls and when I say huge ball I mean 'huge balls', the sort of balls that defy tree climbing and that would burn on the hot blacktop of a parking lot.  I can see how gravity would help while climbing up the tree but running horizontally along a gnarly, old pine or oak branch - not so much.  I guess that the rough translation of the squeaking and growing of a male squirrel on the ground is roughly translated to - "If ya would just come down here I will show you a good time". 
  • The last thing that I have learned is that when you ‘share a trail with horses,’ the whole dang trail stinks of horses, and that there is a pile of horse poop every ten feet down the trail.  Horse poop is the only poop that none of the little critters that live under rocks will take home to the wife and family.  Nothing likes horse poop, and you can tell that because the old horse poop is still there, dry and pretty much turned back into hay, and that is one of the reasons that trails we share with horses always smell of horses.
 
There were really two moments when I was actually forced to put a whoa on the radical extremist stuff and fully open my eyes and look at what was before me, and those were (a) the first emails that I received from the rest of the guys that would be in the team and (b) when I finally printed out the required gear list and associated gear lexicon that was so kindly sent to me by Alpine Ascents.
 
So I was really basking in the glow of my accelerated training schedule – more time in the gym, running almost every day, hiking with weights and the fabulous amnesia-like state of not really knowing what I was letting myself in for.  Nothing can bother you when you are isolated, but then emails start coming in from Alpine Ascents and other members of our 8 person team that remind you that you are part of a team and that you should be considering equipment and both physical and mental fitness.  It was a timely wakeup call for me as I generally do things in my own individual way, and, therefore, I can hide my own mistakes or shortcomings.
 
There are 8 climbers in the team, including an experienced guide.  We have exchanged a few emails between team members, and I immediately understood that everybody was training; Lester and Ike were heading off for a 76 mile hike on the Appalachian Trail at above 5,000 feet and were considering coming to Oregon early for a practice climb on Mount Hood.  Surely not!  I am looking forward to being part of a team but feeling a little insecure about my training and fitness.  I sent an email to Steve pointing out the training of others, and he tried to assure me that we would be able to make the climb at our pace.  I was actually not assured and it was at that point that my rationalizing mind groped for, and found, the phrase that I would hang the rest of my training on ‘people that are not as fit as me/us have made it to the top of Mount Rainier.’  I added the ‘us’, because I taught Steve the phrase, and it has kind of become a mantra now.  We chant it when we are feeling down.
 
All that gear - WTF!
 
The next defining moment was finally looking at the required gear list - it was a fabulous WTF moment.  If I had ever thought that this was going to be a 'hard hike' to the top of a mountain, those thoughts were dispelled in the first few lines of the list:
 
  • Ice axe w/leash
  • Alpine climbing harness plus two locking carabiners
  • Climbing helmet
  • Avalanche transceiver
  • Crampons
 
I know that we are going to be trained in the use of these things, but they are exactly the sort of things that my mother told me not to play with on the grounds that I could very easily hurt myself and possibly hurt others.  I can just imagine myself hanging from an ice wall impaled by a self-inflicted ice axe accident caused by somebody saying 'watch out' when my arm was in motion but eyes were moving from where my free hand was to where the axe should be landing.  "Errrrr, Mister Professional Guide - a little help here please.”
 
Or I can imagine myself accidentally kicking myself in the back of the leg with a razor sharp crampon - that little first aid kit that they suggest will not be man enough for that eventuality!  I am glad to read that the crampons that we use will have a 'heel and toe bail out system' - one moment Andy is there and the next there are two crampons stuck in an ice wall and a lot of rope spooling out at a rapid rate, but no Andy to be seen anywhere! I am sure that is not what it means, but it made me smile anyway.
 
The list goes on but I was truly amused by a mistake that Alpine Ascents made on the list - it reads like this:
 
  • Pee Bottle (1 liter). Large mouth, clearly marked water bottle. 
 
Now you can read than line in one of two ways - that you should clearly mark that it is a water bottle OR that it is NOT a water bottle .  I, of course read it the first way and thought that it was the funniest thing that I had ever read.  Now, if I wanted to be Bear Grylls and drink my own pee, all that I would need would be to have a team of people on the mountain to fix my makeup on a regular basis and affect a posh and excited English accent.  Well, I guess that I am half way there!  My favorite survivalist by far is Les Stroud. 
 
Les never dies in the wild, but he never gets to eat either.  None of his traps ever seem to trap anything other than his own fingers when he is setting them.  But he carries his own cameras and does not have fresh dead sheep put in his path so he can prove that he can, and will, eat nasty stuff.  He does not leap from planes or energetically, but unnecessarily, from rock to rock in front of his adoring camera crew, or take a break in filming for tea and to let makeup fix his hair and add just the right amount of mud to his chiseled and good looking features.  Nope - Les is a guy that makes a bandanna and a 12 o'clock shadow look good and can survive without food for five days.
 
Why a merino sheep is a boy's best friend!
 
I decided to start at the easy end of the list with underwear or as it is variously known as the ‘base layer’ or the ‘layer next to your skin.’  How difficult could this be?  I went to a local backpacking store, or more to the point, it should have been called a ‘boutique.’  I needed a pair of lightweight long underwear, synthetic or merino wool (no cotton), and I found what I wanted along with socks of the same material in the liner sock and heavy weight hiking formats.  As I gathered this stuff up, I absentmindedly totaled the cost of wearing underwear made of merino wool - $260.  Can you spell sticker shock???  And this was just the underwear.
 
I do have to say that I have learned to love merino wool.  The material wicks sweat away from your skin AND keeps you smelling fresh.  So for a $260 investment my balls will remain dry and I will not smell after three days in the same base layer.  I started using the stuff immediately and absolutely love it.  However, it is not that merino sheep magically stay dry when it rains and never get smelly.  The deal is this – wet merino wood does make you smell like a wet sheep, but at least you all smell the same.  I also realized that that unique smell that you can smell when you walk into REI is wet merino wool.  Nasal porn for hikers!
 
I have slowly collected up all the head gear, bits for my first aid kit, Nalgene bottles, SPF-70 sun cream, and I finally found that collapsible Nalgene bottle with the 2 inch opening that is recommended for a pee bottle.  I was unnecessarily excited about that find!  But on the whole I was glad to see that you could rent almost everything that you could ever want from Alpine Ascents except for someone to carry you up the mountain.  Given that I do not ski and I have spent the last 4 years of my life in Arizona or Central Texas, I am a little short on cold weather gear.
 
So what have I learned from my training in Texas to date?
 
  • I have really enjoyed getting into the obsessive ‘radical extremist’ training in both the fitness room and on the trail but wish I had started sooner.
  • Hiking in Texas has been fun, and I could not imagine going out on a hike without a 40-lb. weight pack on my back.  Each time I have gone out, I have found something to laugh at or about – not just mountain bikers!
  • I am still nervous that I am not fit enough, and it is my inability to accept or to even contemplate defeat or failure that drives me forward.
  • I am getting excited about the trip.
 
Training opportunity in Colorado, 3-5 June
 
We have a number of strategic planning meetings at my work, and it is a known fact that I am always trying to persuade them to have the next meeting at a place that is close to good scuba diving…..Seattle WA, Walnut Creek CA, Chicago , IL and please, can the meeting be on a Wednesday/Thursday? 
 
So back in March when everybody voted on where to have the next strategy meeting they chose…….Denver!  I am sure that there was a smug smile on the face of at least one of them knowing that I would be in the mile high city surrounded by mountains and no hope of any diving.  I may even have sulked at the end of the last meeting (which was in Walnut Creek, and I did get to dive Monterrey on the day that the Japanese tsunami hit!).  At least the meeting in Denver was a Wednesday/Thursday on 1 and 2 June.
 
When we set up that meeting I was in the blind eye phase, and it never even dawned on me that it would be 2 weeks before the Rainier climb.  If I had even thought about it, I could have put on a sly grin or rubbed my hands together and giggled maniacally knowing that they had played into my hands.  But, as I said, I was still in the ‘blind eye’ phase, and the opportunity for a smug smile passed me by in my disappointment that it was not a diving venue!
 
It was probably not until three weeks before the trip that I squinted at it – Oh!  That is PERFECT!  But I was still somewhere between blind eye and squinting, so I really put no thought into it until 1.5 weeks before I was due to head over there.  Guess what – ‘radical extremist’ phase hit before I could gather my thoughts and with a few key strokes, I had identified a town that was at or above 10,000 feet and …well…there is bound to be lots of cool hiking trails there ….right?…..right!
 
Getting the right hotel
 
So I called my friend, organizer, and the controller of my schedule (Margo) and asked “Can you find me a hotel in Leadville, CO?”  First question – do you want a ‘dive’ hotel or something better?  The ‘dive’ stems from the fact that I am cheap when it comes to my scuba diving trips; I always arrive late and leave early so any cockroach infested, 1970’s decorated, pay by the hour, no tell motel will do.   My answer – let’s try ‘reasonable cost’. 
 
In retrospect this is always the moment that the ‘well crafted internet photo’ can lure the innocent trip planners into a web of TV’s that are 3 ft thick, plastic cups in the bathroom that do have that clinical shrink wrap covering them, real soap bars, and check-in areas that smell of the dinner that the wife has just cooked for the guy that is checking you in, and the dog that is barking and whining, because it would really like to sniff you, shed on you, and then (if my granny’s cocker spaniels and poodles are any indication) shag your shin while the owner says “Oh, look, he likes you.”  The problem is that they (the dogs) know that so long as they still have all four legs wrapped round your shin, you cannot kick them in the balls or the space where the balls were.   I have been in some of the strangest motels…thanks to my vague directions and Margo’s ability to follow them…to a tee!
 
About a week before heading to Denver, I got excited about the altitude training potential….but still did nothing about p-l-a-n-n-i-n-g the trip.  In fact, I did not actually look at the hikes in the area until I got there.  But my concern about the altitude climbing was very real, and I did feel that some sort of hiking at an altitude above 10,000 feet would either give me confidence or fuel all my insecurities about being dragged up Mount Rainier lashed to seven strong and altitude- acclimatized hiking dudes with professional looking hiking blogs and gear that is not rented. 
 
Rented gear has a tendency to be the same type and color and sometimes has numbers on the outside to identify the product and rental group.  Unfortunately, that just has a tendency to make you look like you should be picking up trash on the side of the road with ten other fellow inmates and an officer, sweating profusely in a pressed uniform with a shotgun and mirrored aviator shades.  At least THEY have a portable toilet that follows them, have an almost unlimited supply of toilet paper, and do not have to pee in a bottle that has been marked ‘water’ by the group leader. 
 
Needless to say the meeting went well, and I was excited to set off for Leadville.  On the drive up there I noticed something that I had not included in my skimpy calculations about this trip – Snow!  It is the beginning of June; I am staying at a place that is 10,000 ft above sea level, and, well, is there a chance that the trails that I think that I am going to hike could be buried under 6 feet of snow?  Maybe!  The drive from the nice work hotel with a TV that was no more that 1 inch thick, three nice liquid soapy things in the shower, and glasses in the bathroom with little paper doily things on them, and the little letter that says ‘Welcome to our valued Diamond member’ to Leadville was beautiful, but as I climbed past designated areas for people to fight with those chain mail spider webs that are ‘snow chains’ and I looked at the snow line that was down to the road, I thought to myself – maybe I should have planned to stay at a lower altitude. 
 
Arriving in Leadville
 
The drive up to Leadville was stunning, and Leadville itself was just what I expected - cute, historic, and waiting for summer to happen.  I stopped in the main street and went to the Tourist Center.  I would have talked to someone about something, but there was the elderly, over excited couple who wanted to ask 100 questions about the town and then ask if they had a toilet.  You know that the only reason that they were in there was to use the toilet, but they felt that they had to ask lots of questions first.  They are the same people that have to stop at McDonald’s to pee and actually buy food to justify the stop.  Me, I look for a Barnes & Noble or a Home Depot, I buy nothing and feel no guilt.  However, I have always wanted to take a book into the stall at Barnes & Noble and flick through it while I am taking a huge crap and then put it back on the shelf – you know that others do, why shouldn’t I?  Having said that, if I do buy a book or a copy of the Rolling Stone from B&N, I always take a copy from the back of the pile – don’t want a ‘dirty’ one!
 
I meandered from the tourist center to the book store and then to a little backpacking store.  At the backpacking store I actually found a collapsible Nalgene bottle with a 2 inch wide mouth – just what the Alpine Ascents Gear Compendium said would be ideal for a pee bottle, and I have been looking for one for a long time.  Clearly this will be different from my real water bottles, and there will be no late night in the tent grabbing for a bottle of water mishaps.  When I played rugby for Oregon State and we would go on long road trips to play games in far off places like Boise, there was an unwritten rule that you never drank from a warm can!  Although I would contest that there is probably little taste difference between pure Budweiser in a cold can and warm ‘recycled’ beer from a can that was refilled by someone that has been drinking Budweiser for the last six hours.  I need to point out that all this is assumption on my part.
 
Subaru cars
 
Anywhere that there is water for kayaking and trails for mountain bikes you will find two things; Subaru cars and Keene shoes.  I swear that the Subaru is the state car of Oregon, and the older the model the better they must be.  It is rare to see one without a rack on the top or the back with some piece of sporting paraphernalia on top of it.  Also, if you look under the bike rack on the back, you will probably see a liberal bumper sticker on the back.  Oh, and wait until they stop and get out - the woman will be wearing Capri-style yoga pants….and probably be a vegetarian. 
 
Ok Andy, just stop this now.  In the end, rather than play ‘dodge the Subaru’ in the main street, I pressed the little button on the cross walk, and they all had to stop for me.  One last thing on this subject, please lock the wheel on the bike so it does not spin when it is going down the road.  I, for one, can find myself mesmerized by the spinning, and that is not good!
 
The guy in the local backpacking shop did not help my concerns about my ability to hike in this area.  He told me that there was too much snow on all the local trails and that I should go to Buena Vista, 30 miles further down I-24 and at a lower altitude.  That made me grumpy and reminded me of something that had ticked me off at the rental car place.  
 
I was in the process of renting the car and the girl asked if I wanted to prepay the gas.  I asked if there was a gas station close by, and she said “Oh, about 20 miles and there are often lines there.”  So I took the prepaid gas option.  As I drove away from the airport and with less than a mile on the odometer, I passed a huge Conoco gas station with 20 islands for refueling and no lines.  The first three letters of the alphabet that came to mine were W, T, and F!  Now I have to run the dang car to empty, and that is way more stressful and harder to do than bringing it back full!         
 
So having left the ‘doom and gloom’ guy in the backpack place, I went back to the book store and bought a book on hikes in Colorado and then drove to the ranger station in town to look for topo maps.  Apparently there was a really interesting meeting going on when I got there and I was ignored for whatever was going on in meeting room 1A.  I walked behind the counter grabbed leaflets like a bank robber taking notes from a teller till and left at the same speed.  And, like the would-be robber that accidentally rifled the $1 drawers and not the $20 drawers, I ended up with a lot of paper with little value!
 
Now I had everything I needed to execute my radical extremist approach to hiking in Leadville - lots of paper, no plan, but glasses and a space to stop my car and skim read a couple of hike descriptions.  However, that was enough to send me off down a dirt track, book in one hand, glasses switching between forehead and eyes, and a frustrated Garmin navigation system that had nothing to say for herself except ‘Recalculating’.  It is always fun when the nice rental car drops off the black top and starts down the dirt trail that says ‘Warning – High clearance vehicles only.’ 
 
Mount Elbert, North Trail
 
As I bounced down the trail, the car bottoming out occasionally, and swapping between long and short vision while swearing loudly at the Garmin, I actually made my way to the Mount Elbert Trail head.  As I sat in the trail head car park, I read the description of the hike and realized that Mount Elbert is 14,400 feet tall, and that is higher than Mount Rainier!  I was truly excited as I started to swap from my work clothes to my hiking gear in the car park.  I have been naked in more car parks than I want to admit to; I always seem to be changing in car parks!  Then it was over to the toilet for a last minute evacuation of anything that needed evacuating. 
 
Looking down into park toilets
 
I don’t know about you, but I hate looking down into those park toilets.  I would prefer to sit to pee, but I worry about the seat and I cannot hover, so I often find myself looking down and regretting it!  I also have a fear of those toilet seats, because of my survival training at Oregon State in 1983.  They told us that brown recluse spiders like to hide under the seats of outhouse toilets and that most of the recorded bites of brown recluse spiders are to the male genitalia….true or untrue I do not know, but it left a psychological mark on me! 
 
There is a rule on a boat that says that you put nothing in the toilet unless you have eaten it first.  Apparently that rule does not apply in park toilets.  I am sure that most of the plastic has only momentarily been in a body cavity and will not decompose in that concrete box in a million years.  When I was a kid we lived in a really, really old house and in one of the outhouses there was this strange pit that was full of interesting stuff, so I decided to excavate it.  Never mind that the wooden structure above it had a hole and a rudimentary seat.  This was a treasure trove to me because clearly lots of stuff that the Victorian owners had not wanted was thrown in there along with teeth, toys, lots of stuff.  It seems funny to me today that my dad never told me that it was an old Victorian toilet (water closet).  I did notice that I was never allowed to bring any of my ‘finds’ into the house though!         
 
But I digress again!  You need to understand that the pleasure that I gain from hiking is not from the scenery or the silence or communing with nature or not stepping in pig/sheep/dog crossed creatures’ poop.  It is about pain.  I like the challenge, I like the pain, and I like the afterglow (more of an ache than a pain!) and the sense of achievement.  Oh, and there is that looming trip and the fear of failure or peer-based embarrassment…oh yes, don’t forget that!
 
The Mount Elbert hike turned out to be everything that I wanted it to be, but it was cut short by snow cover and my lack of knowledge of the trail…..based on a skim read of a book that I had purchased an hour earlier, had skim read, and was now in my well-loaded backpack with my reading glasses.  However, I had a veritable survival kit in the pack because if I do fuck up and something bad happens, they will not be able to say that I was not prepared!  The hike was a steep mix of dirt and snow.  I was following the trail as best as I could, legs sore, heart pumping, and no stopping.  The views through the trees were stunning, there was animal poop on the trail, but I have already covered that! 
 
The real challenge was that the mountain was so high.  I just wanted to make it through the tree line, but at 11,220 feet of the total 14,400 I had to stop.  For once ‘discretion turned out to be the better part of my valor’ and when I could not be sure of the trail because of the snow cover, I stopped and sat down and smiled.  I smiled at the view, at my aching legs, and at the sense of achievement even though I felt that I had stopped way too short of my target.
 
Ask me how I know that I was at 11,220 feet – I will tell you.  Because I still had 3G reception on my iPhone, and I downloaded a 99-cent altimeter app while I was answering emails and checking voice mail.  I actually stopped, sat on a log, downloaded an app, checked my email, made a couple of work calls and was actually happy!!
 
The hike down was fast and when I hit the bottom again, I found another trail and followed that to a stream and sat there for a few moments just watching the water rush by, bubbling and troubling and rushing.  It makes me feel calmer.  However, I was standing at the base of the Mount Massive trail head.  What was I to do?  Blast up that hill!  I went again up and up, head down, breathing hard, and it was a blast until I ran into heavy snow cover again and turned back and found my way back to that bubbling, gurgling, mesmerizing water again.   It was a short hop down the road to the car park, but I had seen a small lake behind the trail head car park and I just passed right through the car park and straight to the lake where I stretched out and watched the wind-driven ripples on the face of the lake change the shape of the mountain that I now want, need, and have to climb all the way to the top. 
 
A short drive back to the hotel, a shower, and walk into downtown for dinner.  I actually love these towns that on the face of it cling to survival but when you sit close to the bar in the local steak place and listen to the people at the bar talking about their lives, ex’s, families and the births, deaths and sleazy gossip of the town, you realize that behind every ‘used to be mining town’ there is a core of people who live there, have families there, and are the backbone of the town.  Where is their future, where is their escape, is there an escape, could they escape, do they want to escape?  I had two glasses of wine, one of two choices on the menu, and it cost me $22.  It was good food, solid food, and I was satisfied with my meal.  Maybe there is a metaphor in there for the people of this town. 
 
Don't stop at the pub!
 
On the way back from the steak place to the hotel, I heard a band playing on the patio of a bar.  They sounded ok so decided to stop in and just keep typing away on this blog.  The patio was clearly the collecting place for the young people of the town, all of them only half listening to the band and half listening to each other.  They are an eclectic looking bunch, drug culture comments and clothes to match.  They were all between ‘just 20’ and ’20-something’s’, and they were collected around a fire pit, drinking, laughing and smoking.  Everybody around the fire pit was smoking.  I bought a bottle of IPA beer, tipped the barman well, and settled down to watch the band and the people.
 
I am an anomaly, the older gentleman sitting at a table typing furiously, but occasionally either taking off his glasses to survey the crowd when another person screamed and jumped about for reasons that I did not understand, but that certainly would have gotten them burned at the stake in Salem in 1690.  The manager, who was closer to my age, obviously seeing that I was a non-domestic beer drinking kindred spirit that was over 20, came over to talk to me.  By that time I had dragged an empty, decorative keg from the wall and made a table out of it for my computer as the actual table in the garden was too tall!
 
We talked a little about beer and a little about the history of the town, but were interrupted by a young, skinny, and lightly intoxicated girl with oversized jeans and a bandanna who reminded him that she was the ‘best fucking waitress that he could get for the place’ and that ‘since she had the baby she needed work’.  He listened kindly and sympathetically and told her that he would see what he could do.  And with that slight intoxicated sway that people have when they are still only slightly intoxicated, she turned back to him and pointed out once again that she was the ‘best fucking waitress in town’…..that must account for the one kid that she had that I was aware of.  The manager was rather insistent that he made the very best crab tostadas and that he would make some for me for free – I considered the meal that I had just eaten and our current distance from any crab bearing ocean – and declined the kind offer. 
 
Meanwhile, things are getting livelier around the fire pit.  In the middle of all this, there is a 3 year old child that wants to dance, but the music is too loud.  Her 20ish mother lights another cigarette from the burning cigarette of a guy her age with a bandanna, impossibly curly hair, and the child smiles.  Everybody smiles, and I can see that everybody is smiling.  This is the heart of the town, this is everything they have, everything they know, and does anybody need more?  The atmosphere is warm and friendly.  I feel comfortable even if my fingers are cold, and I am the strange older gentleman in the corner.  Two dogs start running between everybody, and they are happy too.  One has a bar towel in his mouth, and that means that he is probably slightly drunk and happy too,; just a little high -  the whole place feels ‘just a little high.’
 
A girl called Jess walks over and tells me that I look lonely.  She is from New Jersey, she works for a non-profit, and came here because there are mountains and because “It is not New Jersey.”   She asks me why I am here; we talk for a few minutes, and she drifts off to the crowd.  Somebody has some bongos, and a drum circle is starting.  Is this REAL LIFE?  I have no idea, but I know that my fingers are getting too cold to type, and I am going to walk over to the fire pit and warm my hands over the coals with the 20-somethings next to the bongos.  We will see what happens.
 
So what did happen? 
 
Well, let me start at the end.  As I left the bar, I swayed slightly and turned in the direction of the hotel.  As I walked down the street, I saw a fox trotting up the pavement towards me, and I moved a little to the left to let him pass.  As he did, he paused and sniffed.  Clearly he could smell the crab tostada in the white plastic ‘to go’ box that was under my arm – I did not get out without the tostada!!  Also, in the way that a guy who sways slightly as he walks home does, I stopped at some stage and ate the tostada.  It was messy - I had no napkins, and I am now down to one pair of jeans to get home in.  So, again, how did this happen?
 
On approaching the fire pit, I found myself standing next to two of the three band members.  Two were entirely coherent, and the other was entirely incoherent and would not stop banging on the bongos.  I felt like I was on stable ground talking to young people about rock and roll, and in the process of doing this, I bought all three of them a round of drinks.  The manager thought that this was a jolly fine thing of me to do, so he reciprocated with a beer for me.  Then the band bought me a beer, and then some shots appeared, and before I knew it I was talking to a fox (a real one) on the street eating a crab tostada and ruining my jeans.  Does life get any better than this???
 
The morning was not so good though.  Wine, beer, and unidentified shots left me with a headache, and that is a rare thing for me.  I also felt that I had robbed myself of an early start on my hiking, but knowing the standard of the trails, I was pretty certain that I would catch up, and my legs were aching as I headed into town for some breakfast and coffee. 
 
The Black Cloud Trail
 
As usual, I was starting my day with no clue where I would be hiking, but happy in the knowledge that I would be hiking.  I pulled up a web site with hikes in the area and looked down the list – beginner – intermediate –advanced - advanced/expert were the descriptions that he used.  So guess which section I looked it?  I selected the Black Cloud trail which was advanced/expert on account of the steepness of the climb and the altitude.  I took a couple of Aspirin, and off I went. 
 
The trailhead was hard to find, hidden in the trees and without a real sign.  On driving in, there were two other cars in the parking area - a Jeep, and you guessed it, a Subaru with a rack on the roof.  I did check – no liberal stickers on the real fender!  I was ready to start my climb at 10.00, but my head was still aching and my legs were still sore, but I put my game face on and started up the incline to the real trail.
 
If I have ever been on a harder trail than that, I guess I must have just chosen to forget it.  The first 1,000 feet was a relentless uphill grind on my toes, willing one foot in front of the other over and over again.   I could not get my breath; all the joys of yesterday’s climb were gone.  I would have given anything to quit after the first 500 feet, but that was not an option, and I just soldiered on, up and up, each switchback showing another rocky uphill slope.   This was the first time that I stopped and worried about the real climb in just over a week….
 
A vision of mountain perfection!
 
At some point, I looked up and saw a vision through the sweat, two perfect specimens of humanity, a guy and a girl, not a hair out of place, be-bopping down the trail towards me.  Even their big black dog had enough energy to chase about looking for scents on the rocks.  I used this as an opportunity to sit down (again) and choke out something like ‘nice day,’ and they were gone.  All that they left was a nice smell in the air.  However, I am pretty certain that I heard the girl ask the guy whether he saw that weird sweat stain on my chest, “Was that Jesus or an elephant’s head?”  For my part I had already firmly fixed them as the owners of the Subaru in the car park!  And with that, it was back to plodding, but I was starting to feel a little better.  I had control of my breathing, and the pounding, hissing sound was gone from my ears!
 
About that point I got that extra drive that you get when you finally manage to fish your way through all 28 gears on a bike and get to the lowest one.   The climb weaved its way along a beautiful stream that crashed and tumbled by; the trail crossed the stream at 10,800 feet, and then the notes promised that the climb would become less steep for a while.  I stopped and sat by the stream for a couple of minutes just watching the water, but then I was off again. 
 
The next part of the climb was through some trees. And my friend the snow was back.  Luckily, the Subaru driving, beautiful people had blazed the trail for me, so when I could not see the trail myself, I followed in their footsteps - literally!  The only thing I did notice as I progressed through the trees was that they did not weigh as much as me; they skipped over the top of the snow where I crashed through to my knees.  Now I understand why gaiters and snow shoes are important when plodding through snow.   I did not like ‘post holing’ through the snow drifts but realized that we will be doing a lot of that in a week or so.  At the end of the tree line, the trail crossed back across the smaller, slower, calmer stream at 11,020 feet.
 
After crossing the stream, I walked up onto and through an open area; there was not much snow so I just laid down on the rough grass for a few minutes and looked out to the other mountain ranges; snow topped and magnificent.  Back up and going again and another stretch of plodding through the snow following the perfect couple’s tracks.  Another short but steep climb on rock, and at 11,550 feet, we all hit a snow wall.  I am not sure what direction they went after that; I could not see their fleet footed tracks, so they may have been forced to turn back too.  I had hoped to just keep going - I really wanted to get above 12,000 feet, but I will be back and will get to the top of Mount Elbert before the end of the year.
 
The hike back was fun, the views were astonishing, and when I got out of the snow and back to the first point where I crossed the stream, I stopped and took my boots off and rung out my socks.  Normally when I go back down a hill, it seems quick, and I wonder what all my fuss was about – but not this one.  Half way back down, and I could not believe that I made it up that trail.  Almost at the bottom there is a rocky ledge with another stunning view; I sat there for awhile just enjoying the view before making the final push to the bottom.  And guess what I found??  The Jeep was still there, but the Subaru had gone – they were the Subaru drivers!!  What did I learn from this climb?  Don’t drink before you climb!
 
With that done, I went back to town grabbed a sandwich and rested a little.  At 5 pm I loaded up again and headed back to the base of Mount Elbert trail, but just walked gentle for a couple of hours to stretch my legs a little, no inclines, just a nice gentle walk beside the water.  I laid down on a grassy area by the water and just watched clouds, listened to small rocks clinking through the metal pipes that fed the water under the road, and felt the warm sun on my shoulders.  That was a good place to be. :-) 
 
After the prerequisite clean up and a little writing on this blog, it was time to eat again.  You would think that I had learned my lesson from the previous night and that I would steer well clear of the Tennessee Pass Café, but it was the other place in town that the guy who checked me into the Alps Hotel recommended for food.  So I went in and sat down at a table in the corner and continued typing.  The difference tonight was that I drank water, diet coke, and then coffee that had been brewing for several years, just waiting for me to drink it.  The food was great, I was stuffed full, and it cost me $22 again! 
 
The band was playing again, and I headed out onto the patio. I was better dressed for the cold evening this time.   However, the crowd was completely different.  Gone was the tie-dyed clothing, the dreadlocks, the impossibly curly hair, the tattoos, the piercings, small children and dogs.  The place was full of people with either a few or a lot of grey hairs.  Everybody was sitting in chairs facing the band and listening, largely without moving.  It was a surreal change.
 
However, there was one grey-haired gentleman that simply insisted on being the only person dancing, but had clearly learned all his moves from old Woodstock movies.  The swaying, seaweed in the current, style of dancing that was popular in those days.  The lack of jerky movements suited his age – no chance of throwing a hip out.  But he was happy, so what the heck.
 
Tonight I was not an anomaly; I was in with the crowd, people probably understood that I would not be able to hear them over the sound of the band with my failing hearing, so nobody tried to talk to me.  Everybody was still smoking, but that is just part of that area I guess.  The band was good again, the drummer smashed the skins so hard that he had skin missing from his fingers at the end of the evening; the bass-playing violinist brought a keyboard and added to the songs, the lead guitar was solid as ever.  However, this time when their music touched up against the 11 pm loud noise curfew, I grabbed my computer and left the building; sure footed no swaying and walked my way back to the hotel.  On this night I noticed the stars.  Wow!  High mountain air, all the constellations in sight and shooting starts to boot.  It is hard to beat that.    
 
I slept well but woke at 5 am, because it was so quiet, but by 6.30, I could hear the Subaru’s start rolling down the road outside the hotel.  How do I know that they were all Subaru’s?  Because they whistle!  All those racks and toys make them whistle!  Somewhere between 6 and 7, I studied a book, a map and the weather and chose the south Mount Elbert trail.  Clearly I am now obsessed with Mount Elbert; it is the tallest mountain in CO, and it is my new nemesis!  I packed up all my stuff and was on the road to the trail head by 8 am.
 
On arrival at the parking at the start of the road that leads to the trailhead, I realized that I had not fully comprehended the words ‘4-wheel drive only’ and ‘2 miles from the car park to the trailhead’ – If you don’t have a 4-wheel drive.  When it actually all dawned on me, I realized that I was going to have to hike 2 miles up a rough, pot-holed road to the actual trail head so that I could START my climb! For the first mile I was double guessing the fact that maybe I could have brought my low sprung rental car some of the way; for the last mile I was dreading the thought that there might be a Subaru or two in the parking area by the trailhead that was for ‘4-wheel drive vehicles only’!
 
That was a long, hard 2 mile hike to the trailhead!!  But I made it, and there were no Subaru’s in the car park.  After that the hike was kind of a repeat of the hike on Black Cloud.  Hard and steep at the start, a couple of meadow-like areas with stunning views, a painful trudge through snow that I crashed through up to my chest (at one point), and then having to quit the climb at 11,710 feet (I stood on a rock to get the last three feet). 
 
The other similarity was the appearance of the perfect couple AGAIN.  Not the same couple, but perfect all the same.  They appeared out of the tree line ahead on my right when I was crashing through the snow across some open ground right before I stopped.  There I was, up to my knees in snow, and they just seemed to glide past me, about 10 feet taller than me.  The additional height was due to the fact that they were wearing snow shoes and were gliding blissfully over the top of the snow that I was literally wading through.
 
They were perfectly equipped with the right brands of clothing and everything that was on my Alpine Ascents gear list.  They had nice framed backpacks with the zero degree pads for their zero degree sleeping bags, and they had spent the night sleeping on a ridge near the top of my nemesis.  The words that they spoke seemed to come from afar; there was a golden glow that surrounded them and a nice smell.  It was…..mythical.  Then I realized that they were walking (rather quickly) away from me in the direction of the sun, and I had taken off my sunglasses.   It was only about 1,000 feet further when I realized that I could go no further, so I sat myself down on a rock and contemplated a question.
 
The question that I contemplated was “Where are all the beaten up, ridden hard, and put away wet looking 40 something’s in a mismatch of clothing and sweating strange patterns onto their shirts?”  There are none.  Am I the only old fart dumb enough to try and take on Mount Elbert in early June?  Maybe I should watch Woodstock videos and dance to local bands at local bars – maybe I will limit myself to that in the future.  But I did have a smug smile on my face, I did feel good about what I had achieved, but I was disappointed that I did not make it to 12,000 feet.
 
I bounced back down the trail and seemed to get to the trailhead quickly, so I set off down the Colorado trail for an hour.  The trail took me down past some run off lakes that were homes to several beaver lodges.  What in blue blazes ever encouraged a beaver to gather his family together and say ‘Look, I am guessing that there are lots of trees and some really cold water just up this trail?’  So they bought a backpack, a camel back hydration unit, some beech or oak flavored Luna bars and set off for Mount Elbert.  The dam and lodges that they built were stunning, and it looks to me from the damage and the age of the damage to some of the trees that there have been several generations of beavers living in those ponds.  With an hour of walking done, I turned and walked back to the trail head; still no Subaru’s, and started off down 2 miles of rough road to where the car was parked.   My legs were sore, but I was still happy and just being careful not to twist an ankle on the rocks in the road.
 
So what have I learned from my hiking in Colorado:
 
  • Lots of young beautiful people and one older weather-beaten person climb Mount Elbert early in the season.
  • Drinking the night before you hike does not improve performance!
  • That I probably approached this training wrong and that I should have found longer duration hikes rather than the, albeit slow, mountain ‘sprints’ that I was doing.
  • I am glad that I took the time to get used to the altitude and bust my butt up these trails.
  • I WILL be back to climb Mount Elbert!
 
Do I think that I am now ready for the Mount Rainier climb?  Actually – No.  You cannot start training in earnest or blind panic 8 weeks before a climb like Rainier and expect to be ready for it, even if you do make a point of staying fit all the time (with a few relapses!)  What Colorado did teach me was that I could get that nagging, scary – I am not getting enough oxygen – feeling of hyperventilation on those slopes, and I HATE that feeling and that while getting to 11,800 feet on Mount Elbert was good practice, the additional 2,711 feet that I will need to climb to the top of Rainier will be tougher than the 2,500 feet that I have been playing with.  I am more excited for the climb than I was two weeks ago, but I cannot turn a blind eye or squint at the challenge any more.
 
Final preparations, Week of 6 June
 
This has actually been a tough week all round.  I left the meeting in Denver having committed to writing up the notes of a specific discussion that our group had.  The problem with me is that I cannot 'just write notes' because I get passionate about the subject, and then it turns into a full blown paper with title page, colorful org charts and executive summary.  It is just the way that I am. 
 
So now take what you know about my way of managing projects and assume that I turned a blind eye to it over the weekend, squinted at it on Tuesday, and went into radical extremist mode at about 2 am on Wednesday morning when I woke up with a jump and started to worry about getting it done.  I tied the white bandanna with the red sunrise on my head, and I was off to the races.
 
I don't know about you. but when I do have a large and important project that I need to find some brain space to make progress on, I actually think that I can get ahead of the emails and calls to 'work on it this afternoon' - not so much!  Every little email is suddenly important because I can get that done and not have to exert too much mental exercise on it. 
 
I started writing one draft and got bogged down on it, so I started writing it on sticky notes, and that did not work.  Now it is getting late on Thursday, and I want to work out when I get back to the hotel, and I am tired and waaah de waaah de waaaah. So nothing got done.  On Friday morning I started writing it as a powerpoint and stopped that pretty quickly too because there was something that was not important but just HAD to be answered on my email. 
 
Finally Friday night came and the stress of not having it done, or at least a structure for it, was working on me.  My mind was ready to spew forth the words that I needed, but I just had to have the right surroundings to generate that spark of creativity and focus that would be required to get the paper done. 
 
So, I did what anybody would do; I went for a run, then grabbed my computer and headed to a place where I knew that there would be stimulants available to spark my creativity and all the distractions that an ADD addled mind like mine needed to finally focus on writing this paper.  It was clear to me that I needed a quick visit from Timothy Leary while I was lying in a field of grass under a clear blue sky. 
 
Ok, not so much.  I actually grabbed my computer and drove to BJ's Restaurant and Bar in McAllen, arriving there at about 8.30 pm.  There was one seat available in the middle of the bar so I elbowed my way into the space, sat down, put my notes on my knees, opened the computer, and within moments my face was awash with that eerie light of the computer. 
 
BJ's is a chain that I like that actually has good beer and food.  The one in McAllen is loud in the way that bar/restaurants are in the largely Hispanic towns of the deep south of Texas are.  They are loud because:
 
  • The Mexican language has more effect when used at a higher volume, especially if there happens to be a mariachi band anywhere near.
  • Regardless of the hour of the night, hundreds of children run rampant around all restaurants in McAllen playing games like 'chase me through the bar stools' or 'let's hang over the back of our seat and a make faces at the grumpy looking Englishman'.
  • .....I am English and everything is loud to my delicate English sensibilities. 
 
So there I am sitting elbow to elbow with loud people at the bar, with two huge TV screens in front of me with some game playing and Alfonso the barman puts my beer down in front of me, shakes my hand and says "Hello, Andrew"  You can tell that he learns names from credit cards because nobody but my mother calls me 'Andrew.'  However, he may not go by Alfonso, but that is the name of my server on the check!!  I am impressed that he remembers my name given that I really do not go in there that often - really I don't!
 
But even with everything around me trying to assault my senses, tugging on my consciousness like a Hispanic kid that has dropped a toy under my chair and wants to get it back and is tugging on my sleeve to get my attention, I buckle down and finally click into the groove, and three hours later I have a paper written, one long stream of consciousness only broken into by two beers and a pizza.  I absolutely love getting into that groove, and I love to think and write.  I was so relieved to have the structure and bulk of the paper done.  The place was much quieter when I finally looked up, looked round, paid the bill and left!
 
So what about my training this week?  I guess that it was a little more intermittent than I might have liked, but I still managed to hit the fitness room and run.  It is often the case that when you start a run and within the first 5 minutes you want to quit and that the same run will turn out to be a good one by the end - that happened to me twice this week.  However, the stress of the paper and work that needed to be done and the heat and humidity slowed me down.  But I am guessing that the fitness needed for climbing a mountain is not found in cramming training into the last couple of days, like the studying in the final hours before a midterm, and I did want to slow down a little. 
 
I did have one moment of questioning during my training session; I was just finishing on the running machine, oblivious to my surroundings and piping loud music directly into my head via my ears.  I was aware that I had broken wind, loudly, and a few seconds after the off gassing I heard the door click.  Normally I would have kept looking straight ahead of me and ignore the moment. 
 
However, I was not aware that there was anybody else in the small fitness room, and I was intrigued to see if there was someone passed out on the floor or gasping for air.  I looked round - nobody - hmmm.  Did the person open the door at the very moment of my trouser cough and leave in disgust?  Clearly this was not a person that shopped regularly at WalMart where I am told that sort of experience is common place.
 
Certainly the widespread use of the iPhone and headset has made the airport toilet stall experience more bearable.  I am embarrassed on behalf of those people that, apparently suffering from dysentery, sit down in a stall and generate such a cacophony of grunts, groans and general close to the porcelain sounds that I used to want to dial 911 or scream for a medic.  A similar experience can be endured at any freeway truck stop.  However, these days I just plug in and turn up the volume and hear NOTHING. Here are some things that I have learned about airport toilet stalls:
 
  • Keep your feet inside your cubical, and keep the unnecessary foot tapping down to a minimum.
  • Disabled toilets have convenient hand holds and places to put your stuff down, but I cannot imagine how guilty I would feel if I looked under the door and saw the bottom of a set of wheels waiting outside the cubical door.
  • There is no 3-second rule when you drop anything in an airport toilet stall – no exceptions.
  • Don’t sit back in the seat with your feet apart, pushed to the front of the stall and balanced on your heels – WHAT ARE YOU DOING??
  • Always remember whether your ipod is attached to your shirt or your pants.  Dropping your pants and forgetting that you have earphones in can be painful and result in one ear bud on the floor and the other bouncing tentatively on the lip of the porcelain bowl before rolling off the edge and into the ‘water’ like a Tiger Woods Nike ball dropping into a hole.  Trust me, this has happened.
  • Do NOT press any experimental looking red button on the side of a toilet while you are sitting on it.  I was in the Chicago Airport when they experimented with a ‘U’ shaped seat that had a plastic condom that went around it.  The idea was that you came into the stall and pressed the red button which caused the condom/sausage skin to move around giving you some clean plastic to sit on.  Again do not press the red button when you are SITTING on the toilet – it was an uncomfortable but strangely arousing feeling. 
  • Do not outstay your welcome – Come on people!  How long does it take to do your business in an airport?  Forget the newspaper and the texts, this is a fast moving environment -- get in, get done and get out!
  • Which janitors are responsible for making sure that the toilet paper is stuffed into the holder in such a way that I can only get one piece at a time because it tears before it rolls?
  • Please do what it takes to be comfortable to sit down…put one of those toilet covers on whatever, but DO not think that you (a guy) can hover and drop!  The next person in the stall will not appreciate it.
  • And my favorite – the automatic flushing toilet - that work of the photocell that knows when you get up.  Some are so sensitive that you only have to lean forward and they flush and that means cold yucky ‘water’ on the butt cheeks and the need to get more toilet paper, one piece at a time out of the toilet roll holder.  I hate you airport toilet cubicles.
  • On that subject, or close to it, I have been slightly nervous of airplane toilets as well.  When you press the button they pause for a second; then with a loud bang and hissing sound they suck the contents of the bowl away with such force that it will pull one piece of paper off the toilet roll AND then suck the sports page of the paper that the unfortunate guy in 28E was reading under the door as well.  I never sit on one of those things – if the flushing mechanism went off accidentally while I was sitting on it, my life would be changed forever!
 
 
The squeal of my running shoes on the still spinning rubber road, like the sound that tires make as you start to skid towards the oncoming truck, brought me back to my senses as I swerved my hips to avoid a potential roll off incident and got back on track with my running.  The other thing that you might be able to do on a running machine, but I cannot, is to close your eyes while running to try and find that zen state of running - the squeal of my shoes normally brings me back to my senses, but it is kind of fun trying anyway. 
 
So the big question of the moment - with my paper done I decided to go diving on Saturday morning out of South Padre Island with American Divers to the Texas Clipper.  Does spending 2 hours underwater at depths varying from 60 to 100 feet negate all the altitude work that I did the weekend before in Colorado????  I guess we will find out next week. 
 
On the ride back on the boat I laid on the top of the back cabin in the sun and relaxed.  I absentmindedly smeared some sun oil on myself, over my chest, the tops of the wrinkles on my stomach, backs of my arms.  I then proceeded to roll my wetsuit down a little, wiggled into a comfortable spot between some gear bags and fell asleep.  Unfortunately I fell asleep with my arms above my head and totally exposed an area that had neither seen the sun or been protected from the sun.  Laying out flat after applying sun oil in the sitting position results in rolling hills and deep shady valleys of flesh becoming one open rolling plain of skin variably protected from the sun.  I really do not need to explain what I looked like the next morning but 'stripey' would be a good word.
 
The drive back to Austin started with the normal nerve racking drive along 281 out of McAllen.  In the outside lane are the high-speed cars of the drug lords and gang bangers, low sprung, tinted windows and traveling fast weaving between the rest of the traffic.  In the inside lane are the old pickups full of melons or tires and jalopies of all types but all traveling well below the speed limit.  This is the group that has no insurance and no driver’s licenses - and nothing to lose!  And there am I, white knuckled in my white pickup trying to drive down the middle lane at the speed limit caught in the scissor action of being overtaken at speed on one side and over taking cars at apparently high speed on the other side.  Don’t ask what happens when the road narrows!
 
My last stop on the way back to Austin is the border patrol check point just north of Harlingen.  When I finally get to the front of the line and the drug sniffing dog has done one trip round the truck the guy looks at me and says "American Citizen", "Well yes sirreee" I say with the best American twang that I can do.  I am a citizen but while you are a legal alien with an accent you have a green card (pink actually) to prove your ‘alien-ness’.  When you are a citizen with an accent, you have nothing to dispute your ‘accent-ness’ with (unless you carry a passport - which I do not).  So to keep things simple I pretend to chew gum and use my best American accent to save the hassle of explanations!   
 
One thing that does make me smile is that most of the border patrol guards are Hispanic and there is a big sign, in Mexican, with several smiling Hispanic people and one Asian person (there is always an Asian person on almost every sign for happy employment somewhere).  It even says ‘Se Habla Espanol’ in a star under the smiling faces.
 
So my idle mind thinks that maybe people crossing the border at night just want to make it to a border patrol station and drop off a resume.  Can you imagine the interview? “And Mr Esperanto, what experience do you have of the ways and means that people use to enter this country?”………………
 
But with that done I am on my way back to Austin and home – only to find out that the death toll on 6th Street during the ROC motorcycle rally was up to three.  Best to stay at home this weekend.
 
Actually it was the weekend of the last trips to REI, wants overcoming needs, last bits and pieces, and the REI bargain rack.  Steve kept telling me of the good deals that he had found, and I was striking out.  But then on Saturday I found a pair of hiking poles at an REI used equipment sale for less that I was planning to rent them for - SCORE! 
 
I really did my best to find things that matched, but there is a good chance that on the actual climb it will look like seven professional climbers taking one guy up the mountain who got his wish granted by the ‘Make a Wish’ foundation!  
 
But as I sit here on Tuesday evening, with my flight to Seattle leaving at 6.05 tomorrow, I am happy to report that my bag is packed, and I am as ready as I am ever going to be and rather excited to boot! 
 
The climb, June 15-17
 
 
 
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